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Stuart Anderson is a retired patternmaker and designer for swimwear and other stretch fabrics. Through dedication, passion and interest he practically invented the methods used by most stretch fabric patternmakers. Although retired he makes himself and his knowledge available online through his free online course and blog, PatternSchool.com. Read on as FSO talks to him about the industry and what it took to become a top professional in an undefined specialty.
1) Can you share a bit about your history in the industry, the types of positions you worked in for example?
I completed my Diploma at TAFE in 1988 with most of my focus on pattern making and textiles rather than the art focus of so many courses today. During the last year of my course a company trying to make aerobic wear approached the school for assistance with stretch pattern making and obviously were disappointed to find that no one could teach it back then. My pattern making teacher suggested the company give me some fabric to play with to see if I could work out their fitting issues (I was something of a teacher's pet back then!). After a few weeks I had worked out what would and wouldn't work with the textile I'd been assigned and created a full set of stretch blocks . my first. These blocks proved very successful and I was passed around from company to company by my pattern making teacher to help solve problems in everything from aerobic wear to swimwear. I took some time off from fashion to actually work in a factory to support my fiancé while she finished her degree (it paid more money at the time). I never stopped doing small subcontract pattern jobs here and there, but it was never enough to live off so I kept working in other fields. Over time the smaller intermittent jobs became frequent enough to dedicate myself to full time as a stretch fit pattern maker. I also helped fill in temp spaces at various clothing manufacturers doing everything from sewing to designing. I also taught a few evening classes in stretch fit.
2) And what is your main role now?
I'm retired now :-) . but keep up with a few of my favourite clients
A screenshot of Stuart Anderson's website, PatternSchool.com
3) According to your website, much like Annie Jackson the founder of FSO, you believe in the sharing of knowledge and, also much like FSO, your website was started to facilitate this sharing (and by the way can I just take a second to say we are all indebted to you for this course you have written -- I still can not believe you put all that work in and published it for free!). Can you share with us a bit more about this? What did you hope to accomplish when you started and what were the frustrations you were trying to address?
Well initially it was because there was no actual text book for stretch fit that suited the classroom. I had to provide handouts and methods to my classes each time that required constant photocopying and preparation. A friend suggested I write a pattern making book myself which seemed like a good idea at the time. So I created a whole stack of swimsuits and set off with a group of models to photograph them so I had images for the book. The process went really well and I was convinced by the girls that I should actually do my own swimwear label instead of always helping others do theirs. So here I was: write a book and be without income for a while or make my own label and use that to pay for writing the book later. I chose later. I enjoyed it so much that I pretty much stopped working for anyone else, stopped writing the book and just concentrated on making short runs of swimwear and custom fit suits. I also finally made a lot of money.
Once I was used to doing my own stuff I went back to continue writing the stretch fit techniques using the internet as a means of proof reading and giving the students something to use until I was finished. Somewhere along the line I thought it best just to let it evolve and mature for a few years and leave it freely available to the public so I'd get better feedback on how well my techniques worked.
4) And with time has running your website and being exposed to more learners changed your focus or the way you approach learning and teaching?
I think that every interaction with someone else changes you in some way, no matter how small it may seem. Teaching is probably the best way to improve yourself!
5) In your current role as a teacher, as a facilitator of knowledge, what are your goals? What do you hope to accomplish? And how far do you think you have come to those goals? Have you made that difference?
Well I don't think I'm going to finish a book anytime soon as the website keeps growing and maturing. Some people publish early and then publish revisions. I'm not in any hurry and I enjoy all the feedback and discussion so everything can just stay as it is for now. My main concern since retiring was that my unique skills would be lost to the industry after making so much effort to research them. The website has prevented that from occurring so I'm happy. You tell me if I've made a difference :-)
6) Now, you have worked in the industry for quite some time before teaching so not only are you a good instructor who is capable of giving clear instructions but also it is with an experienced eye that you come to this, which is really unique. Unfortunately many instructors have only a few years experience or had a lot of experience but it was many decades ago. This does make sense of course, it goes with that old saying "those who can, do, and those who can't, teach" which in my experience has been vastly true -- the people that get-it, in any industry, tend to have an inherent understanding and have difficulty teaching those that aren't at their level...anyone who ever had a math tutor who was a math genius work with them knows what I'm talking about: I could have learned better from a 5 year old. Not to mention the fact that often people who are really good in fashion are, well, insane, which adds a whole new level of difficulty to their teaching styles. What I am wondering is how did someone like you get into teaching? Why are you not still a big fancy swimwear designer flexing his creative muscles every day?
There are two reasons. The first would take someone who has known the industry really well to understand why I chose to retire. I did not enjoy the company of those within the industry with whom I was required to work. I found most people superficial, untrustworthy and arrogant. The fashion industry is packed full of these egos and you have to have the stomach for it . I don't. As someone who has significantly developed the science of my field I do not enjoy being told by someone with no experience beyond the skill of drawing pretty pictures what will or will not work. This is a serious problem for the industry and it's getting worse because student designers are learning less and less of the foundation skills. Even when designing and manufacturing my own ranges, I found the promotional side of the industry unbearable (eg; models turning up for shows drunk, behaving like the world owed them something, PR people who use more adjectives in one sentence than they do all other words combined, etc). I once met a model at a promotional event showing off that she had spent the day sleeping and dining with the designer and telling me of how he'd promised her all these shows . can you imagine her embarrassment when I told her I was the designer and not an onlooker and I'd never met her in my life?? When this sort of thing becomes a daily event you either embrace it and turn it to some kind of advantage or you quit. As a designer you need to entertain these type of idiots and massage their egos like a prostitute in order to stay at the top of the ladder . sorry if that sounds a little bitter but it's quite true of the fashion industry in general and anyone aiming for the top needs to be that type of person.
For me it was never about these things. I've worked with or for the very best in the world and I've contacts in places most would dream of. That was never the point. I love the science behind stretch fit and I constantly research and test new methods because I want to . it's almost an addiction to find the perfect fit for whoever I'm working with.
The second reason is more about economics. My wife is a dentist and she earns more than me no matter how successful I am in fashion :-). I simply don't need to do it anymore! The work I do now, I do because I want to and much of the teaching I do at no charge simply because I love my science and working with students. Happiness is more important than being a celebrity . it can take some people half their life to work out the two are mutually exclusive.
7) I know of only 3 current sources of information for patternmaking with stretch fabrics. In addition to your site, there is a book called Design and Patternmaking for Stretch Fabrics as well as a book called Patterncutting for Lingerie, Beachwear and Leisurewear. I own both, because I'm an addict. The first tends to be more focussed on designing with knit fabrics (like t-shirt fabric) and the second is kind of a mash-up of everything. Finally your free online patternmaking course is focussed on really stretchy fabrics: bathing suits and body fitting catsuits. Are you aware of these other books? And if so, speaking from someone with a lot of industry experience as a patternmaker and designer with stretch fabric, what is your opinion of these?
The first is an interesting book but full of mathematical and table errors. It's not really effective to use as a teaching aid for swimwear/dancewear but for loungewear it may be ok. It's probably a nice addition to a bookshelf but not much else beyond that. The second seems a bit old fashioned but the techniques are better for the classroom environment (keep in mind who the students are). Considering the lack of alternatives, however, it's hard to criticise either. Both have been rejected by every institution at which I've taught.
There are a few books on copying bras and swimwear to get patterns but these are aimed at the home sewist and do not provide a great deal of understanding for students trying to learn ready to wear.
8) In your past career, as a designer and pattern drafter for swimwear, beach wear, catsuits and other stretch fabric clothes, you entered a market where the education just did not exist. Trial and error were your teacher and other designers and patternmakers were learning the same ropes as you. Was this community open to sharing knowledge or did you find you were each on your own, isolated in your learning, mistakes and discoveries? Were there any mentors?
In addition to my previous answers I can say: While the industry is pretty secretive to competition, I've been in a fortunate position to have been sought by them for help so they didn't really have much choice but to show me what they were doing. I hope that by making my techniques available for free on the website that industry won't really have anything to keep secret beyond their design styles for next season :-)
9) Speaking of mentors, it is my understanding that you take students and new grads on in your shop. I have read your concerns about the state of patternmaking education in the schools and as someone who is familiar with the course curriculum of many schools across the globe, I can verify that they are not without merit. While there are some schools that excel at graduating students with high technical skills a lot of students either are unable to go to these schools (cost, location, etc) or find out too late that the school they have picked is not on this list. What would be your professional advice for a student who finds themselves in this position and really wants to be able to enter the job market as a patternmaker? What do they need to do? What do they need to be capable of doing? And what will people be expecting them to have already done?
I no longer manufacture so I haven't employed new grads for a few years. From any perspective however, if you want to be a pattern maker then you need to learn those skills, be it at fashion school or outside the course. I am a very strong believer that if you want to be a good designer then you also need a good background in pattern making and construction or you may find yourself designing something that can't actually be made.
10) For those same students, what skills and aptitudes would you say are needed for success in industry as a patternmaker? Who should keep trying and who do you think should be a bit more realistic about their possible entry into the world of patternmaking?
If you love what you do then sooner or later you'll become good at it. If you really want to be a pattern maker or designer then you need good math skills if you hope to improve your skills after you graduate. People with a good sense of 3D form tend to make good patternmakers. In employees I look for qualities like attention to detail, problem solving skills, math skills, as well as the obvious tactile and artistic skills. I'd never employ a young design or pattern assistant who can't sew or make patterns because, let's be honest, any design problems are likely to be solved at the pattern or construction stage.
11) Any closing thoughts or final advice for patternmaking hopefuls?
A well qualified and skilled pattern maker can earn a great deal more than the average designer (not talking about label owners here). There is also an ever increasing need for pattern makers as these skills are being lost in our schools. Experienced patternmakers are more and more becoming subcontractors that determine their own hours of work and fees. While fashion design hopefuls compete a for diminishing number of design jobs, they fail to realise that most design positions are filled by pattern makers already known to the company!
You can learn more about Stuart Anderson,
or follow his blog and online course, by visiting PatternSchool.com
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Tuesday, 15 December 2009
Stuart Anderson is a retired patternmaker and designer for swimwear and other stretch fabrics. Through dedication, passion and interest he practically invented the methods used by most stretch fabric patternmakers. Although retired he makes himself and his knowledge available online through his...
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