I've learnt a lot in the past few years of seriously starting down the seamstressing path. I've tried to boil down this list to the ones that you won't find in your machine's instruction manual, basic sewing book, and such, but will give you easy steps up in your practices and techniques. So, without further ado..

1. Your Sewing Machine is a ferret.

What do I mean by this? You can keep a sewing machine for years, never have any problems with it, think you know the thing inside out.. but get complacent and you'll still find it lunching on your fingers. The temptation is there to relax around a sewing machine; it's small, it doesn't have any big, whirry blades, and it's fairly inoffensive. But you need to always keep in mind that it can bite your fingers, and it will hurt. A lot. People have had to call the ambulance many times over this. Don't let your fingers wander near the needle, even when it's idle, if it is still turned on, even if your foot is nowhere near the pedal. If it's an industrial/old style machine, make sure it hasn't kept any residual charge (they can often keep a couple more stitches of life, even after you've turned the machine off). And if it's an overlocker, then.. it's not really a ferret any more. More of a mountain lion. Overlockers are mean-tempered, have a needle *and* a whirring razor blade, and if they don't get your fingers, will often just settle on ripping right through your carefully cut piece of fabric. And if you have long hair, watch that you don't loose it with a serger.

If the machine is industrial, all of the above is doubled.

2. Double stitching is good, tying off is better, both is best.

This one does what it says on the tin, really. When you finish sewing a line, be it a seam or decorative, it's very important to tie the stitch off at the end. If it's at an edge of the fabric and it won't be seen, you can tye the two threads together over the edge, otherwise thread one through to the other side with a hand needle (again, where they won't be seen), and holding them together as one thread, tie them in a simple knot. You can double it if you really like, but I've never seen a basic knot tied tight like this come loose. A lot of people use stitching back and forth repeatedly at the ends as a substitute for this, but it doesn't really work in the long term. I've seen so many pieces of great work where the seams have just been double-stitched over and snipped off, and they do start to wear away after a little hard wear. It depends what you're sewing for, however. If you're doing a fashion show and the piece only has to be worn once, then you can cut a few corners. But if it's a piece you're planning on you or someone else wearing for a longer period of time, it really is worth the extra few seconds.

3. Sewing machine gunk is a good thing.

When you first open up your sewing machine (which you will, see 10), you'll see a lot of pinky-beigy-gross gunk covering a few of the pieces. I know it looks like someone blew their nose into your machine, but don't wipe it off! It's there to lubricate the machine. That said, the stuff is a magnet for fluff and dust, so it's worth getting a tube of it yourself so that you can wipe all of the grime off once in a while without ruining the functionality.

4. General tips on Tension

Tension is something like the brakes on a car or bike. It's basically friction applied to the top thread, to keep it coming at the right pace for the thread to pull perfectly. The common trait of bad tension (either too much, or too little) is one side showing the telltale 'railway tracks'. This is one thread being pretty much idle, and the other forming loops over it, clearly visible on the other side. Pulling the first thread should easily tug it loose. Try fiddling with the tension until you get it right, otherwise the seams on your garments will be loose and easily broken.

That's what I call it, anyway. This is little line somewhere on your sewing machine's foot, that marks the middle. When lining up fabrics for overcasting (see 9) or other stitches that need the edge of a piece to be on-centre, then it's often tempting to watch the needle and where it's landing. If your stitch is set up right, which it usually is, watching the crosshair is more accurate and less confusing.

6. Keep a Disinfectant Handy.

You're going to be stabbing yourself a lot with pins and needles, ones that, if you're as clumsy as I, will have been around the floor a few times. It's best to keep an alcohol hand-gel or similar closeby when you're sewing, so that you can clean the scratches and pokes as they happen.

7. Always Test.

Running a test piece through your machine to see if the stitch is right takes 5 seconds. It doesn't have to be the same fabric, just something close in thickness.

8. If Something's Wrong..

Then check that the top thread hasn't slipped from any of the arcane loops and holes you've threaded it through to thread the machine. Occasionally these can come loose. If it's not that, then check the bobbin tension (how tight the cotton is around the bobbin) and how the bobbin is set up. You can tell that the bobbin tension is correct if you hold the thread that is coming out of the bobbin case and the bobbin does not crash to the floor. Jiggle it hard and the bobbin should extend on the thread a bit, only a bit. You can adjust the tension by tightening or loosening a little piny screw that is on the bobbin case. If that's fine, then check your machine is clean (see 10). If all else fails (including the manual), use Google.

9. The Zig-Zag is your Friend..

Overlockers are convenient, but not everyone can afford one starting out. Doing a zig-zag stitch along your frey-y hem, missing the fabric with one side of the stitch, is a poor man's (or woman's) version. You might want to back it up with a straight stitch if you've got the time, and it's not a stretch fabric.

With stretch fabrics (jersey cotton and spandex are prime examples) you need to use the zig-zag stitch. Otherwise your stitching will be keeping the rest of the fabric from stretching, which can play havock with your design.

10. ..As is the Screwdriver.

As I previously mentioned earlier, you'll want to open up your machine now and then to check that there's not too much fluff and dust in there. The slightest amount can mess up the whole machine, so it's best to brush around inside it (a cotton bud will usually do), in all the little nooks and crannies.

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